Why It Works
- Rice flour gives the cookies an incredibly light and crispy texture.
- Replacing up to half of the rice or all-purpose flour with ground peanuts yields a great nibby texture and even stronger peanut flavor.
Look. I've tried. I waxed nostalgicabout Oreos. I sang the praises ofClown Cones. I wrote poetry for theDairy Queenand even traveled through space and time to catch a creepyice cream truck.
But when it comes to Nutter Butters, I can only say, WTF, Nabisco? Never has a more inappropriate mascot ever shilled a cookie. That someone hasn't filed suit against theNutter Butter Mancomes as a complete shock.
Thiscreepy fopmay have only had one commercial appearance ever, but when it comes to that kind of freaky, once is enough. The Nutter Butter Man sneaks up on an unsupervised boy at the playground, zipping down a slide to catch him unaware. He frolics around, disguising his approach in a playful dance, and then plies the boy with cookies before crudely inquiring, "What has creamy peanut butter filling filling up its middle and is peanut shaped?" At this, he wildly gesticulates toward his own freakish body: man from the shoulders up and hips down butall Nutterin between. The boy, recognizing the menace, gets the hell out of dodge and runs away without so much as a backward glance.
That commercial aired in 1973 as a part ofSchool House Rockback when television programs didn't mind exposing countless young viewers to sinister and lurid animations. Nevertheless, after that Nutter Butter enjoyed such tremendous success it would never require another advertisem*nt on television or in print.
A massive advertising campaign couldn't keepCrystal Pepsion store shelves and anelven Einsteindidn't have the wherewithal to ensure Magic Middles' survival. Yet Nutter Butters endure. I ask you, what other substance maintains popularity through the ages without advertising and in the face of overwhelmingly bad press?
Drugs. Nutter Butters don't even bother to disguise the fact that they come laced with peanut butter, one of the most addicting substances in the world.
And Nutter Buttersarehabit-forming. In spite of a double dose of peanuts from the crisp cookies and creamy filling, their gentle peanut flavor remains elusive. They stimulate your peanutty pleasure center without ever fully satisfying, leaving behind an eternal hunger forjust one more. Each bite reveals subtle hints of vanilla, nuances of toast and a haunting trace of salt. The withdrawal symptoms are brutal.
Regardless of the questionable nature of their one commercial, it did succeed in definitively enumerating a Nutter Butter's charm. Their famous Nutter Butter peanut butter cookie riddle asks, "What has creamy peanut butter filling filling up its middle and is peanut shaped and crunchy too?"
Well, not the average DIY Nutter Butter recipe, I can tell you that. Apparently any two peanut cookies slapped together qualify. But no more!
With this recipe, we can all at long last enjoy a batch of peanut butter sandwich cookies free of Nutter Butter Man's...touch.
Using rice flour makes the Nutter Butters incredibly crisp and light and I actually prefer it to all-purpose flour in these cookies. Of course, you needn't make a special trip to the store, all-purpose flour works well too; the cookies will have just a slightly heavier texture.
If you're not aiming for utter Nutter Butter perfection, you can replace up to half of the rice or all-purpose flour with ground peanuts; this yields a great nibby texture and even stronger peanut flavor; quite nice even if totally inauthentic.
September 2011
Recipe Details
Homemade 'Nutter Butters' Recipe
Prep49 mins
Cook15 mins
Active30 mins
Chilling Time30 mins
Total94 mins
Serves20 sandwich cookies
Ingredients
For the Cookies:
2 ounces unsalted butter
1 ounce creamy peanut butter
5 ounces sugar
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 egg yolks
5 ounces rice flouror all-purpose flour
1 ounce roasted, unsalted peanuts
For the Filling:
1 1/2 ounces unsalted butter
1 1/2 ounces creamy peanut butter
1/2 ounce cream cheese
5 ounces powdered sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Directions
For the Cookies: Using a hand or stand mixer set to medium speed, cream together butter, peanut butter, sugar, baking soda, salt and vanilla extract just until combined. Take care not to over-mix; the less air that is incorporated into the dough, the better. With mixer still running, add in egg yolks one at a time. Once incorporated, shut off mixer and scrape bowl down with a rubber spatula.
In the bowl of food processor, combine flour and peanuts; process for 1 minute then sift the mixture in a fine-mesh sieve; regrind any chunks that do not pass through and sift again. Discard any bits that do not pass through the sieve. If any chunks are included, it will be difficult to roll the dough sufficiently thin and those same chunks will clog your piping bag when you attempt to pipe a design on top.
Turn mixer to its lowest setting and add rice flour and ground peanuts all at once. The mixture will be stiff. Continue mixing until uniform. Shut off mixer. Use a spatula to scrape the dough from the bowl and knead lightly to form a smooth ball. Use your hands to flatten into a disc.
Refrigerate dough for 30 minutes, or until stiff enough to roll easily.
Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C) and have 2 parchment-lined baking sheets at the ready. Sift some flour onto the counter and use a rolling pin to roll the dough as thinly as you can manage, about 1/8 inch. (The cookies will puff and reach just shy of 1/4 inch after baking; thus dough rolled only to 1/4 inch will puff to 1/2 inch inch, making the finished, filled sandwich over an inch thick. Not good.)
When finished rolling, slide a metal spatula between the dough and counter to loosen. This will prevent the cookies from sticking.
A bikini/sunglass cutter, slightly stretched and widened, makes perfect "Nutter Butters" but use any cutter you like. Cut out the cookies and use a metal spatula to lift and transfer to cookie sheet.
Arrange cookies on parchment-lined cookie sheet. Set the sheets aside.
Gather up, knead, and re-roll remaining dough scraps, likewise cutting and arranging on a cookie sheet. The scraps can be re-rolled 2 more times.
To make a Nutter Butter pattern on the cookies, place any remaining dough scraps in a mixing bowl. Mix with a hand or stand mixer while adding hot water, one teaspoon at a time. Continue adding hot water until the dough has thinned into a paste. You can always add more liquid, but you can't take it away. Add slowly and let each addition mix in fully before adding more. When the mixture reaches a frosting-like consistency, use a spatula to scrape it out. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a very small tip, or a heavy duty Ziploc bag with a tiny hole poked in the corner.
Pipe some sort of design atop each cookie. Four vertical lines and several horizontal hashes will give the impression of a Nutter Butter, but any design will do.
Once cookies have been decorated, bake for about 12 minutes, or until firm to the touch. If your oven has an uneven heating element, rotate cookie sheets after 6 minutes. Once the cookies have baked, cool thoroughly, directly on the sheet pan.
For the Filling: With a hand or stand mixer, cream together butter, peanut butter, cream cheese, powdered sugar, and vanilla. Cream on medium speed for 5 minutes; use a rubber spatula to scrape the bowl down periodically. The long mixing time makes the filling less gritty.
Using a spatula, transfer the filling to a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip. Alternately, use a Ziploc bag with the corner snipped off as a makeshift pastry bag.
To assemble the cookies: Flip half the wafers over. Onto each, pipe a barbell shaped line of frosting down the center. Top with remaining wafers.
Transfer cookies to an airtight container and refrigerate for several hours to set the filling. The cookies will keep for about one week.
Special Equipment
Food processor, fine-mesh sieve, rolling pin, bikini/sunglass cookie cutter or other cookie cutter, zipper-top heavy-duty plastic bag
Notes
All measurements are in weights, as volume measures can be very imprecise. I strongly recommend using a scale for all pastry projects. Serious Eats' recommended kitchen scale is the Oxo Good Grips Scale with Pull Out Display.
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