MONOTUB GROW GUIDE (2024)

PRO TIP Avoid getting any contaminants on the needle prior to injecting the kit. If you accidentally touch the needle at any point, you can flame sterilise it. Do so by applying a flame from a lighter to the tip of the needle until it glows red hot. Allow to cool and proceed with the steps.

STAGE 2: INCUBATION

MONOTUB GROW GUIDE (1)

1. Incubate the grain bag in a dark, warm spot. A cardboard box with some holes poked for air exchange works well. Keep the temperature between 21-24°C for optimal growth. Try not to exceed 26°C or you increase the risk of contamination, which is no bueno!

If you’re struggling to maintain a consistent temperature above 21°C, invest in a heat system such as our MushPro Incubator.

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2. After about a week, you should start to see the first signs of colonisation. Healthy mycelium should appear first as fluffy white specs on the substrate. It can sometimes take longer than a week, so don’t panic. This is especially true if you’re using a spore syringe. Be prepared to wait! For quickest growth, use a liquid culture or agar.

3. Over the next 2-3 weeks, the mycelium will continue to grow and colonise the grain. Once 30% of the grain has been colonised, gently break apart the mycelium inside the bag and mix with the rest of the grain. This will drastically speed up the colonisation process.

4. Over the next week or so, the mycelium will consume all of the grain until it forms a white ‘cake’ of mycelium spawn. Once at this stage, you’re ready to spawn.

STAGE 3: SPAWNING

1. Find a nice sanitary environment, or as clean as you can possibly find. A kitchen surface wiped down with 70% isopropyl alcohol will do the job. Make sure to eliminate as much draft as possible from your work space.

Apply the gloves and face mask that are provided. Sanitise your hands and arms as well as the area that you are working in.

Using the isopropyl alcohol spray bottle and a sterile wipe, sanitise the entire MonoTub lid and base.

2. Using the same sterile wipe, give your colonised grain bag and your substrate bag a cautionary wipe down as well.

Once sanitised, break up the colonised grain inside the bag. Cut the top of the grain bag and dump the entire contents into the tray. Do the same with the substrate bag, but save around 1/4 of the substrate to do a casing layer in the next step.

3. Mix the grain and substrate evenly together inside the tray. Once mixed, gently level out the substrate to create an even, flat surface. Take your time with this step to make the surface as level as you can. You’ll be rewarded for your efforts with more mushrooms! Make sure not to compress or pack down the substrate too much.

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4. Now apply the remaining 1/4 of the substrate directly on top of the spawned grain and substrate. Do not mix with the spawned material. Think of it like icing a cake. The goal here is to create a 1-2cm casing layer with the substrate on top of your spawned mix. Again, gently level out the substrate to create an even, flat casing layer.

The casing layer will protect the mycelium underneath as it colonises. It also acts as a humidity trap, giving you much more even, full flushes. Once the casing is complete, snap the lid onto the tray.

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5. Put your MonoTub somewhere dark and away from direct sunlight. Some ambient light is ok and can even aide colonisation, as long as its not direct sunlight. During the colonisation stage, make sure to keep the vents closed to keep carbon dioxide levels high. Mycelium will colonise faster and more vigorously in high carbon dioxide environments, so use it to your advantage.

You should maintain a temperature of between 21-24°C for colonisation. After about 10 days your MonoTub should be fully colonised and ready to fruit. Don’t worry if it hasn’t fully colonised by then, it can sometimes take as long as 2/3 weeks to fully colonise. This is largely dependent on the genetics of your spawn and the incubation temperature.

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STAGE 4: FRUITING

1. To put your MonoTub into fruiting conditions, simply open the air vents slightly (but not fully) to increase oxygen levels Fresh air and light are the two essential triggers to initiate mushroom pinning.

2. Place your MonoTub in a warm spot between 20-22°c, where it can receive some indirect sunlight or room light. You want to give the substrate at least 4-6 hours of light a day. You do not need to overthink lighting as mushrooms require very little, but some is always beneficial.

3. For the first flush, very little misting is required. Usually a single misting directly onto the casing layer is all that is needed. If the substrate is looking dry or there is little/no condensation on the inside of the tub, misting every couple of days may be required.

4. After about 14-21 days from spawning, you should see your first pins. These are baby mushrooms, that will grow and develop into mature mushroom fruiting bodies over the next few days.

STAGE 5: HARVESTING

Harvest the mushrooms just as the veils start to break. Once harvested, mist heavily directly onto the cake for 45 seconds to rehydrate it. Repeat fruiting steps 1-3 for subsequent flushes.

Expect 2 to 3 flushes (crops) of mushrooms per tub. Don’t throw the tub away after the first flush, there’s plenty more to come!

Your grow is finished once mushrooms no longer grow or the substrate eventually succumbs to contaminated. Dispose of the spent substrate in a compost heap.

As always, happy shrooming!

NEED SOME EXTRA HELP? CLICK BELOW FOR OUR TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS AND TRICKS

MONOTUB GROW GUIDE (2024)

FAQs

What is the easiest mushroom to grow in a monotub? ›

People also grow side fruiting species of oyster mushrooms in monotubs, including pearl oysters, pink oysters, blue oysters and phoenix oyster mushrooms. But these easy-to-grow mushrooms produce higher yields when grown in bags using a shotgun fruiting chamber or grow tent.

How do you make a perfect Monotub? ›

You will be drilling a total of six 2 inch holes around the perimeter of your tub: two holes on each long side and one hole on each end about 8 and a half inches from the base of the tub. Then, you will drill 1 inch holes positioned approximately 4 and a half inches from the base.

What size container is best for Monotub? ›

Too small of a tub and your harvest won't be as successful as it could be—your fungi will be essentially competiting with itself for resources, and you'll ultimately get less pinning and fruiting. A monotub should be 54 quarts, more or less.

Which mushroom has highest demand? ›

Worldwide, button mushrooms or Agaricus bisporus is the most widely cultivated and consumed mushroom in the world.

When to add coco coir to monotub? ›

Once you begin seeing the formation of primordia, you have the option to case your tub, which means covering the entirety of the substrate with a very thin layer of 100% coco coir.

Should I mist my Monotub? ›

Step 2: Once the monotub has been introduced to fruiting conditions, you need to mist the substrate once per day throughout the entire fruiting stage.

How do I keep my Monotub humid? ›

We set up our humidifier and humidistat to keep relative humidity between 75-90%. Our fan and cycle timer was set to one minute intervals. The fan in our monotub is set up backwards to blow fresh air in through its filter.

How long does it take for a Monotub to fruit? ›

After about 10 days your MonoTub should be fully colonised and ready to fruit. Don't worry if it hasn't fully colonised by then, it can sometimes take as long as 2/3 weeks to fully colonise.

How often do you water a Monotub? ›

Take lid off monotub about 3 times a day and firstly squirt water inside the walls of monotub and lid. Then gently fan inside for about 30sec. Avoid spraying your substrate directly but keep the sides of the tub moist throughout the day.

What size monotub for 5 lbs substrate? ›

We recommend 25qt monotub per 5lb of substrate; or 15-16qt container per 5lb of substrate for incubation and then placing it in a big enough fruiting chamber (e.g. shotgun fruiting chamber) or humidity tent for fruiting.

What is an alternative to a Monotub? ›

Mushroom grow tents like our BoomRoom II are portable, collapsible fruiting chambers designed for maintaining the ideal fruiting conditions for growing edible and medicinal mushrooms indoors. Grow tents offer 3-5 times as much volume as a single monotub but cost 2-3 times as much.

Can you use a monotub as a fruiting chamber? ›

The neat thing about a Monotub is that it provides us with an all in one container to mix our mushroom grain spawn with Hardwood or Poopy Substrate for colonizing and then also serving as a fruiting chamber.

Does your monotub need holes? ›

The simple answer is generally yes, most monitors can be mounted on a monitor arm. Monitors come with the standard VESA hole pattern of 75 x 75 mm or 100 x 100 mm on the back of the monitor for attaching to a monitor arm.

What is the easiest mushroom to grow? ›

Pretty much every mushroom growing resource I could find says that oyster mushrooms are the easiest variety for first time-growers, as they grow fast and can easily thrive in substrates made of things like coffee grounds and straw, making them relatively low maintenance.

What is the easiest mushroom kit to grow? ›

Lion's Mane Growing Kit

They are also one of the easiest, and one of the most delicious… a perfect candidate for a beginner growing at home! For Lion's Mane, as long as the humidity is above 60% RH, you can simply cut “x's” in the side of the bag and wait.

What is the fastest growing mushroom variety? ›

The fastest-growing mushrooms are oyster mushrooms. Substrate bags will become fully colonised by oyster mushroom mycelium in just 10-14 days. Oyster mushrooms will then be ready to harvest 7 days after fruiting.

What is the most stimulating mushroom? ›

Cordyceps was traditionally used as a tonic because it has the capacity to revitalize and restore symptoms like fatigue, exhaustion, and chronic stress. Out of all the medicinal mushrooms, Cordyceps is the most stimulating, warming, and powerful in a traditional context.

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