Thai-Singaporean Couple Serves Hard-To-Find Bangkok Chicken Noodle Soup In Sim Lim Square (2024)

Opened last September at Sim Lim Square, HuaiKhwang Chicken Broth Noodle is a snug eatery that specialises in a lesser-known style of Thai noodle soup in Singapore. Their star dish features a dark, flavourful chicken-based broth (that looks and tastes similar to boat noodle soup – more on that later), rice vermicelli and a braised chicken drumstick.

Owner Don Yap, 40, tells 8days.sg that the noodle dish is popular in Bangkok, but hard to find in Singapore. “We wanted to sell boat noodles at first, but after my wife cooked this dish for me, I felt that we should sell it instead as it’s more unique,” he says. Don co-owns the joint with his Thai-born wife Apple, 40.

The air-conditioned 28-seater is located near the mall’s famous salted egg chicken eateries Taste Good and 3 Meals A Day. Even though Don is a freelance interior designer, the owners have kept the decor simple to keep costs in check. Besides chicken noodle soup, the eatery also offers popular Thai dishes like tom yum, fried rice and salads. Most of these are cooked by Apple, with assistance from two part-timers.

Inspired by similar dish offered at Bangkok markets

The couple says they have tried the dish at Huai Khwang Night Market (which they named their eatery after) as well as the iconic Chatuchak Market in Bangkok, and believe they’re the first to offer it in Singapore.

Apple, who’s from Surin in the Isan region, shares that she first encountered the dish while visiting Bangkok. “Actually, I didn’t used to like chicken noodles. I prefer beef and pork noodles. I fell in love with this dish after trying it in Bangkok. It was so good that I started to learn how to make it at home,” she says. The self-taught cook –who honed her skills from working at various eateries in her native country – says she figured out the recipe on her own.

Husband and wife team

Don tells us he first met his wife in Bangkok through mutual friends – the pair tied the knot in 2013 and have two kids. They’ve invested around $60K to launch HuaiKhwang. When asked why they decided to open an eatery, Don responds with pride: “Because my wife is a great cook. I’ve never liked Thai food until I tried her cooking.” Aww.

Though he is often at the shop to help out, Apple is mostly responsible for running the eatery and cooking for HuaiKhwang’s menu, which has over 20 items.

“We started out with only four menu items, but she wanted to expand the menu to offer more variety. At first I was afraid that she wouldn’t be able to handle it but she’s proved me wrong. Our customers were very happy about the expanded menu. Going into this venture together has made me see Apple’s abilities in a new light,” he says sweetly.

For Apple, opening a standalone eatery is a dream come true. “I’m very happy to have my own place here,” shares the lady boss who’s had a long career in F&B. She relocated to Singapore 15 years ago and used to own a mookata kopitiam stall in Sengkang for two years before leaving the business due to issues with her partner. Before opening HuaiKhwang, she worked as a server at casual Thai and Western diner Pump Station 1965 Bar & Bistro at Punggol East Container Park.

Similar to boat noodle soup, but cleaner-tasting

HuaiKhwang’s signature dish features a murky broth reminiscent of boat noodle soups. Both get their hue from dark soy sauce and are enriched with spices and herbs. In Thailand, boat noodle soup is usually thickened with pig’s blood, which is banned in Singapore. HuaiKhwang’s broth is made from simmering chicken bones, drumsticks, radish, spices like star anise, cinnamon and black pepper for an hour. The chicken drumstick gets braised during the cooking process, and is used as a topping for the final dish. The resulting soup offers a similarly rich and wonderful depth of flavour as boat noodles. We did, however, find that it’s slightly cleaner-tasting and lighter than the latter’s meatier stocks.

Their noodles approved by chef Pang Kok Keong

Don says business has been “okay but can be better”. Weekday afternoons are generally busier thanks to the office lunch crowd as well as some spillover customers from their often-packed neighbours, Taste Good and 3 Meals A Day. The majority of their customers are local, but the owner has also seen a small group of returning Thai patrons who were delighted to find the Bangkok-style chicken noodles here.

Pang’s Hakka Yong Tau Foo owner and pastry chef Pang Kok Keong has dined here and told our colleague that their food is “nice” and urged us to check it out.

Chicken Drumstick Noodle, $7.50 (8 DAYS Pick!)

Think of this as a slightly lighter, poultry-based version of boat noodles. Robust, lightly herbal broth tinged with garlic and star anise. The chewy, soup-soaked rice noodles are full of flavour and are plied with beansprouts and kang kong for added crunch. Topped with a tender drumstick and radish slice, this is a soulful bowl perfect for days when you’re craving for something soupy. Liven things up with house-made condiments like the fiery chilli powder or the tangy chilli-vinegar dip.

Crab Meat Fried Rice, $9

Savoury Thai-style fried rice with crab meat. Quite fragrant, but we wish the wok hei was stronger. The hand-pounded chilli-garlic sauce adds a delightful punch to the rice.

Seafood Tom Yum, $8 (8 DAYS Pick!)

Spicier, tangier and more savoury than your average red tom yum soup – very shiok. Served with sotong, prawns and mushrooms, this is a hearty bowl that will go well with plain rice or noodles.

Century Egg Salad, $8

Featuring minced pork and century egg, this is a substantial Thai salad with good tang and heat.

Fried Chicken Wings, $6 for six pcs

Satisfyingly crisp wings with juicy meat. Good for sharing.

Fried Pork Neck, $8

The crisp-skinned pork jowl is well-seasoned, but we found the meat a bit too fatty.

Drinks, $3 each

Standard Thai beverages like cha yen (iced milk tea) and lemongrass tea are available too. The milk tea is rich and creamy – order as a sweet finish to your meal.

Bottom line

Props to HuaiKhwang’s owners for introducing a different style of Thai noodle soup to Singaporeans. Their slurp-worthy bowl of chicken noodles alone is worth visiting the shop for, while the other popular Thai dishes are pretty satisfying as well.

The details

HuaiKhwang Chicken Broth Noodle is at #02-05 Sim Lim Square, 1 Rochor Canal Rd, S188504. Opens daily except Wed, 11am - 8pm. Closed Feb 9 to 12 for CNY. More info via Facebook & Instagram.

Photos: Dillon Tan